LIFETIME of WALKS by DEREK HARWOOD

I was up very early for the long drive to the Scottish Borders. I observed a magnificent sunrise while driving up the M1 motorway. There were problems with traffic on A1(M) around junctions 42 to 43 because of a broken down lorry, but Google maps directed me around the problem with ease and without other diverted traffic, magic. I stopped at Durham A1(M) services and on the Scottish/English border to photograph the Boundary Stone. I also had a quick stop in Jedburgh to photograph the Abbey. I parked the car in Morebattle village, near to the bus stop and by the village shop. I waited for the one and only daily bus service to Kirk Yetholm (No. 81A), due at 12:28, but it was a few minutes late. I soon arrived at Kirk Yetholm by the village green and the Border Hotel, the official start/finish of the Pennine Way. Luckily the St Cuthbert's Way also passes the green so it was a simple matter of walking, straight from the Pennine Way route to the westerly direction of the St Cuthbert's Way. (The English bus pass does not obviously give me free bus journeys in Scotland, so it hurt for me to pass over my hard earned cash, a whole £2.60 of it.) I crossed a field by the Bowmont Water (river) for the short walk to Town Yetholm. It was not a town but a village. I took a short diversion from the route of the official Way, to avoid the cows and see Town Yetholm up close. I was pleased to see the well-kept village with its immaculate thatched cottage and the front garden of a house smothered with gnomes of all shapes and sizes. I continued onwards along the B6401 to the road junction at Primsidemill where the Way turned off left along a lane towards Cliftoncote. After a good mile along the single track road, the Way turned sharp right up a rough track to the ridge of Crookedshaws Hill. I climbed over the stile to a steady climb up the ridge, which was steep in places near the summit. At the gate near the summit I met a couple from Skipton walking in the opposite direction. They couldn't use their bus passes either. I had to stop and rest several times as the going was so steep. I followed the wall topped with barbed wire for the whole of the ridge walk, passing peaks, Crookedshaws Hill 306 metres, Wideopen Hill 368 metres and Grubbit Law 326 metres. I had to hold tight onto my hat as the strong wind would have blown it over the wall, which would have been a very long diversion to retrieve it. It was a steep descent into Kale Water and the river valley. There were excellent views all around from the ridge, especially to the east in the direction of the Cheviot Hills. Views of Staerough Hill, Shereburgh Hill and Hownaw Law (Hill) were magic. I had a few problems finding the best route for the track in the valley bottom as the track meandered and it was difficult to see where it was going. I was just able to spot a signpost in time for the path to the footbridge from the track, otherwise I would have got my feet wet at the ford. It was a very good ford for vehicles, as it was smooth concrete and wide. I met several couples on the lanes to Morebattle Village, all willing to chat and explain their experiences of the Way, It was an easy, steady walk into Morebattle with good views all around. As I walked into the village the man in the coffee shop waved as I passed, but I wanted to get back to my car and find my accommodation in St Boswells, which was still several miles away. The coffee shop was a church, which had been converted into living accommodation. It was a great day's walking, literally on the hills. Same again please.

Location Map: - www.streetmap.co.uk, Start: at Kirk Yetholm. Finish: at Morebattle.