LIFETIME of WALKS by DEREK HARWOOD

We travelled by bus from accommodation to Craster village and walked down to the harbour where there was little activity due to the tide being out and little water in the harbour. We turned left along Dunstanburgh Road where the cottages overlooked the harbour and out to sea. We soon reached the first gate where the island of Little Carr was easily visible with its tall cairn or monument on the southern end. From the gate we walked into a wide open grassy field with no obstruction to the seashore, only the steep, low cliff in places. We were not sure if Muckle Carr rocks was actually an island at high tide. A very rocky, flat beach with many large and small black stones worn by the sea from a sloping flat geological fault called Whin Sill. As we walked on, the rock of Muckle Carr is easily visible when turning around to view the village. We could see Dunstanburgh Castle high on its rock in the far distance at all times after leaving the village. After about 20 minutes walking we stopped for refreshments and to view the magical calm, deep blue North Sea. When we continued we passed several gates, which everyone religiously closed and latched every time, and two small ravines with low but steep sides. When we reached the castle harbour we turned towards the castle and scaled a small steep path to a large field leading all the way up to the castle entrance. At the entrance we showed our National Trust cards and after a short explanation to the charming lady that I had walked the ‘AA’ walk many years previously, she let us complete the walk for a second time, although we weren’t English Heritage members. We walked anti-clockwise from the Great Gatehouse, starting at the Inner Bailey, passing as follows: Constable’s Tower and Constable’s House, Egyncleugh Tower, Queen Margaret’s Cove, Postern Gate, Castle Point Gateway, Rumbling, Gull Crag, Lilburn Tower, Huggam’s House, John o’Gaunt’s Gatehouse above Queen Margaret’s Cove, Lilburn Tower, Egyncleugh Tower. We found that all of the structures were but a small fraction of their former glory, with some barely visible. I visited Castle Point from Castle Point Gateway, which again was not a stile but only a narrow opening in the wall. We enjoyed the spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and reading the information boards scattered around the castle. While reading one information board overlooking Gull Crag, we talked to a lady and gentleman about the National Trust and the ‘AA’ Book of Walks. I wonder if the lady will put a comment in ‘My Guestbook’ of this website? We returned from the Great Gatehouse to Craster Village to catch bus X18, but unfortunately our timing was completely wrong, so we visited the Jolly Fisherman Inn, for a drink and a snack until the next bus arrived an hour later. A great day out in the sunshine and fresh air, with great views and peace and quiet, with just the sounds of the wildlife and the sea. Recommended.

Location Map: - www.streetmap.co.uk, - Start & Finish: at Caster